







This is the story of a girl and of her church. She is an acolyte at la Iglesia Anglicano de San Pablo in the settlement of San Juan de Letran in the Baja Lempe region of El Salvador. We attended services there on Sunday morning, March 9, 2008 and shared in Communion with the congregation.
Getting to church at San Juan de Letran involves dirt roads best traveled by cart or on horseback, particularly in the rainy season, when parts of the road must be nearly impassable. But the trip is worth it.
The new church building is beautiful, situated on a low hillside with shutters on all sides open to the breeze, and views of the surrounding countryside



After the service we walked across the road to the site of a sustainable agriculture demonstration plot that Audrey, Eric, the deacon who lives a few houses away, and the jovenes, or youth of the church are building
This is also where the new clinic building is located. It is mostly an open air concrete block ramada, with locked rooms in the back to store supplies. A nurse visits the community once a week; the doctor and dentist visit once a month.


While I was standing next to the church talking with Eric and Noah and looking out over the surrounding countryside and enjoying the sunshine and warm breeze, I commented on the beauty of the place. Eric and Noah then told the rest of the acolyte's story.
"See that line of low hills about a mile away?" they asked me.
"That is called las lomas de los pajaros....the hills of the birds. During the violence, this area from the Rio Lempa eastward was controlled by insurgents. There was a government army base near the bridge across the river and a gun emplacement on the hills to the right. The government conducted a scorched earth campaign through this area, destroying everything. In October 1981 the soldiers formed a human cordon and swept all the villagers before them into a ravine where the hills of the birds reach the Rio Lempa. There the soldiers massacred 600 men, women and children." The La Quesera massacre is a living memory for the people of this area. Forensic teams sponsored by NGOs and foreign governments continue to search for remains and attempt to identify them. As the scattered remains are identified, they are given a Christian burial. For more detailed account of this work, check the website of the Central Baptist Church's El Salvador Partners Mission Group here http://salvadorpartners.blogspot.com/2007/01/nueva-esperanza-and-la-quesera.html
This is the story of a groundskeeper at the University of Central America. He is the man who planted this peaceful rose garden. His wife, Elba Ramos, was the housekeeper here for several Jesuit priests who taught at the University. Elba and their daughter, Celia Marisela Ramos lived in an apartment in one wing of the building in the background.Senor Ramos planted this garden because his wife and daughter were murdered here 19 years ago by members of the Salvadoran military---murdered along with the six Jesuit priests living here. The priests were the primary target of the death squad. The priests---especially Ignacio Ellacuria--- were considered subversive because of their outspoken defense of the poor and their challenges to the extreme economic disparities and government oppression in El Salvador. The soldiers who murdered the groundskeeper’s wife and daughter along with the priests were from a battalion of the Salvadoran Atlacatl regiment trained by the U.S. Army at Fort Benning, Georgia. I helped pay for the training of these murderers through the tax dollars I was paying as a prosperous young lawyer.
The groundskeeper’s story is told by these roses and by the walls of the building where these people lived and were were gunned down by the soldiers. It is told by the stairs those soldiers ran down on their way to kill Sra. Ramos and her daughter….the stairs my friend Michael now walks down in the warm Salvadoran sun, with birds singing in the rose garden---past the doors to the rooms where the six priests were sleeping, or reading, or praying before they were shot where they stood or were dragged outside through the doors Michael walks past….dragged out in the night to be murdered in what was to become Senor Ramos’ rose garden.
The groundskeeper tells his story through the exhibits in the museum downstairs…the portrait of Archbishop Romero (himself martyred 10 years before)----a portrait which itself was shot at and burned by the soldiers in their rage that night….the clothing worn by the priests when they were assassinated….the small glass containers with soil and blood taken from the ground where their bodies lay.

The story is told in a glass case holding a few artifacts from the many killing fields of El Salvador----bits of bone, spent bullets that had torn through people’s bodies, part of an automobile camshaft used as a club, ammunition cartridges---the tools of killing.
The groundskeeper screams his story in the paintings in the Chapel at the University. They are called “The Stations of the Cross”, and they are but a few of hundreds of paintings created by a Salvadoran artist as a way of exorcising his memories of viewing these bodies at massacre sites while searching for the the remains of relatives and friends.


I could have prayed for years to be able to forgive myself and not got anywhere at all; it was in being able to let the other go, forgive the other, that I began to be able to forgive myself. It is for this reason that I think that telling people that they need to forgive themselves is to place a terrible burden on them. It is to direct them to fruitless introspection and breast beating, since none of us has direct access to what makes us conscious. The only way to forgive yourself is projectively, which is to say, in another person. As you forgive another, so you will find yourself being let go.
Pajaros en el Aire
"Las manos de mi madre
son como pájaros en el aire
historias de cocina entre
sus alas heridas de hambre.
Ellas se brindan cálidas
nobles, sinceras, limpias de todo
¿cómo serán las manos
del que las mueve
gracias al odio?"
Thank you Mercedes Sosa...